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Marrakech - A Discovery of Time-Honored Craftsmanship
Marrakech - the rose-hued city, famed for its vibrant culture, has an abundance of secrets to share. I invite you to join me on a day of discovery, diving deep into the city’s beating heart, where master artisans carry forward traditions passed down through generations.
Morning Amongst Marrakech’s Leather Craftsmen
My day began amidst Marrakech's leather district, a heady mix of the distinctive aroma of leather and the delightful chaos of craftsmanship. Amidst a riot of colors and textures, the North African leathers used in Marrakech, from calves, cows, goats, and even camels, were being transformed into a myriad of products, each bearing a testament to the city's heritage.
I watched as the craftsmen – delaineurs and tanners – skillfully went about their trade in a fondouk reserved for them. The delaineurs, masters of their craft, received blood-stained skins and prepared them using an age-old technique. They washed and beat the skins, sewed the torn parts, and then allowed them to dry. Following this, they applied a mixture of lime and flaked sulfur, humorously referred to as poison, to the reverse side of the skin, let it react for a few hours, and then, with gloves and a wooden tool, rubbed the skin until the wool came off.
In Marrakech, the fruits of these processes were everywhere. From cowhide being transformed into sturdy bags and shoes to goatskin used to craft poufs, babouches, belts, desk pads, wallets, lightweight handbags, and jewelry box covers. The sight of large Moroccan salon cushions, entirely hand-stitched and adorned with intricate patterns and multicolored threads, was a testament to the city's mastery over leather craftsmanship.
The Hidden Treasures of the City
The day brought more surprises. I stumbled upon a quaint marketplace in Marrakech where pigeon droppings, high in acid content, were traded. The droppings were used to strip wool from sheepskin, a technique that is a testament to the ingenious methods used by these skilled artisans.
Afternoon in the Copper District
The city's love affair with craftsmanship wasn't limited to leather. In the dinanderie, the area devoted to copper works, the rhythm of the hammers against copper was as captivating as the shimmering creations.
The copper was sourced from the south, exported raw, and re-imported as large sheets of varied thickness and dimensions. The artisans, the dinandiers, manipulated this versatile metal to craft intricate and luxurious items. I found enormous teapots, radiating under the sun, etched with silver, and buckets with elaborate Arabic calligraphy, both telling tales of Marrakech's intricate craft heritage. Floral or geometric patterns adorned trays, mirrors framed in red and gold hues, and stunning lanterns and knockers, accentuating monuments like the Karaouine Mosque or the Royal Palace. Each object was a living testament to the city’s craftsmanship.
The End of a Fulfilling Day
As the sun cast its golden glow on the 'Red City', I left the artisans' quarters with a newfound respect for the masters of leather and copper crafts. The day's discovery journey through the age-old traditions of Marrakech's craftsmen made me realize that these artisans are the heartbeat of the city. Let’s continue this journey of exploration together on Tuyya, one craft, one city at a time.
